From the Cat’s Perspective

Imagine it from your cat’s point of view. She spends all this time marking the scratching post and then suddenly it’s gone and replaced with one that doesn’t have any of her familiar scents or marks. Her old scratching post was a comfort to her. In a multicat home with more than one scratching post, certain cats may have claimed specific posts or even specific areas on each post for marking.

So even though you might think you’re doing something wonderful for your cat by purchasing a brand new post and tossing out that old shredded one, you might actually be causing some anxiety.

The Better Way to Replace an Old Scratching Post

Purchase the new post and place it next to kitty’s current one. Let her take it for a test drive. She might start scratching on it exclusively or she may only periodically go for it. Have both posts there so she will have the choice. You can increase the new post’s appeal by rubbing a little catnip on it. To add some of your cat’s scent to it, take a clean sock and rub the old post down and then rub the new post. Don’t rub your cat with the sock because you don’t want to get her facial pheromones on it. Cats don’t typically scratch where they facially rub. Rubbing the old post will hopefully capture some of the scents from the scent glands located on kitty’s paw pads. These scents are released when the cat presses her paws against the post to scratch.

Upgrading to a Better Post

When getting a new post, if kitty has been successfully scratching on the current one, purchase a new one that has the same material. For example, sisal is a very popular material and most cats enjoy scratching it. So if the current post is sisal-covered, get another sisal-covered one. If however, the post you currently have is rather small because you got it when your cat was just a kitten, then upgrade to a taller post this time around so she can fully stretch out when scratching. It may be time to also consider adding a cat tree to your cat’s environment.

When to Toss the Old One

When you see that your cat is routinely using the new post you can then remove the old one. Just make sure that it really is no longer functional for your cat. Just because it has a few shreds on it may mean that it’s not as appealing from a human’s perspective but may still be the ideal post for your cat.

Need More Information?

For more specific information on scratching posts, furniture scratching problems or even how to construct a scratching post, refer to the book, Think Like a Cat. If you’re having behavior problems with your cat and would like a consultation with cat behaviorist Pam Johnson-Bennett, CCBC, contact our office.

Rule Out Medical Issues

Even if you’re absolutely certain that the problem is behavioral, you need to have your cat examined by the veterinarian to make sure there isn’t an underlying medical problem. There are a number of medical issues that could be causing kitty to feel uncomfortable about pooping in the box. If she experiences constipation, for example, she may associate the box with her discomfort and attempt to go somewhere else. If your cat is older and has arthritis, it may be difficult for her to perch on the litter substrate in order to eliminate solids. If you have a covered litter box, she may feel cramped in there while perching in position to poop.

There are a number of intestinal problems (inflammatory bowel disease for example) that commonly result in cats defecating outside of the box. The cat may experience cramping and the discomfort causes her to try to eliminate wherever she is at the time. She may also become so uncomfortable that she can’t make it to the box.

When you take your cat to the veterinarian, try to bring along a sample of her stool so the veterinarian can run some tests and also examine the appearance (for signs of blood, mucous, hair, etc).

Don’t overlook this very important first step if your cat is pooping outside of the box. I have lived with a cat who had inflammatory bowel disease and know how much pain he must’ve felt when his intestines starting cramping. I also have a number of clients who have cats with intestinal problems. Getting your cat diagnosed and on appropriate medication (and in some cases, prescription formula food) as soon as possible will be most important.

Survival Instincts

There are some cats who don’t like to defecate in the same area used for urination. For some cats it may be that urination has more territorial connection or it may just be a quirky feline instinct. Regardless, a simple solution you can offer is to make another box available for defecation. Don’t place the box right next to the original box or it’ll just be regarded as one big box and kitty will still not poop in it. In many cases you can put the second box in the same room (depending on the size of the room), but in other cases, you’ll have to locate the second box elsewhere. Your cat will certainly let you know when the location pleases her.

Safety Issues

It typically takes a cat a bit longer to defecate than urinate. In a multicat household where there is even the smallest amount of tension, it may be too stressful for a cat to hang out in the litter box long enough to poop. If the box is covered, wedged in a corner or hidden in a closet, this truly reduces the cat’s escape potential. She may feel it’s safer to poop in another location that allows her to have a better view in case an opponent is coming. The location she chooses may also give her a better opportunity to get out of there more safely.

The solution in this case may be to provide uncovered boxes and to make sure there are enough boxes located through the house.

Substrate Preference

Some cats, for whatever reason only they seem to know, have a substrate preference when it comes to the feel of the litter for defecation versus urination. Perhaps it has something to do with the amount of time they spend in that perching position for pooping. If you think that might be the case, offer another litter box with a litter that has a different texture. In general, cats prefer a soft, sandy texture when it comes to the litter substrate.

Last But Not Least: Cleanliness

A cat may decide that the box is too dirty if there is any waste already in there. She may urinate but then feel it’s now not clean enough for her to defecate in. Understandably, you can’t stand over the box 24 hours a day with a litter scoop in your hand in order to remove waste the nanosecond it touches the litter. Just make sure you’re scooping at least twice a day and have more than one litter box so there will be a greater chance that kitty will find a clean patch of litter for defecation.

Want More Information?

Your veterinarian should be your first stop whenever there is any kind of litter box problem. Have your cat examined and if she gets a clean bill of health, talk with your veterinarian about your specific litter box set-up. If you’d like more specific information on litter box issues, refer to any of Pam’s books, including the most recent release, Think Like a Cat.

Note: This article is not intended as a medical diagnosis. Consult your veterinarian about any changes in your cat’s litter box habits.

The Importance of Scent

To better understand the scenario that takes place when the returning cat is attacked, you have to appreciate how cats communicate. They are masters at it and use vocalization, body language, visuals and yes, scent! In fact, scent is arguably at the top of the list.

The pheromones (scent chemicals) that cats give off from their scent glands provide other cats with a huge amount of information. Every time your cat rubs her cheek along an object she is depositing a scent; when cats flank rub each other they are exchanging scents; when one kitty lovingly grooms another she is putting her scent there. In a cat colony, this mixing of scents through allogrooming, flank rubbing, etc., is important to the security and peace of the group because it creates a communal scent.

Have you noticed how your cat may sniff your shoes or your clothes when you return home? That’s because you are carrying unfamiliar scents into the territory. If you were at a home with another cat, your kitty will probably do some seriously intense sniffing to gather as much information as possible. So imagine how threatening it must be for the cat who stayed home to see a cat being let out of the carrier, into her territory, who is carrying unfamiliar scents. In fact, when it comes to not smelling like her normal self, the situation is made worse because the scents are those of a very threatening (from kitty’s perspective) place.

The returning cat doesn’t smell the same and actually is carrying scents that the returning cat associates with fear. Not many cats look forward to a visit to the veterinarian. Having your companion cat actually bringing those threatening scents into your territory? Time to panic!

The Offense and Defense

The cat who stayed home issues an initial attack. The returning cat doesn’t know where this came from and so she reacts defensively. Well, now we have a two-way battle going on. There’s no way, at this point, that either of the cats will stop and re-evaluate the situation and realize they’re fighting their best friend.

What can make the situation even worse is if the returning cat is already stressed out from the veterinary visit, is sick, recovering from an injury or illness, or not happy about having had to be in a car.

 Preventing This Type of Aggression

1. If the visit is for routine vaccinations or exams, schedule an appointment for both cats. That way they’ll both have a similar scent.
2. If you’re taking just one cat to the veterinary clinic, before leaving, take a pair of clean socks and gently rub her down, including around the cheeks, to collect the pheromones. Place the socks in a plastic bag. Then, take another pair of socks and rub the cat who will be staying home. If you have several cats, rub the cat who is the most bonded to the kitty who will be making the veterinary visit. Then put those socks in the bag as well. Keep that bag at home.
3. When you return from the veterinary clinic, place the returning cat in a separate room and close the door. Take the socks out of the plastic bag and gently rub her down again to redistribute some of her own scent and mix it with the scent of her companion cat. Leave her alone in the room (or at least keep her separated from other pets in the household). This time alone will give her an opportunity to do some self-grooming so she can clean off more of the unfamiliar scents and redistribute her own, comforting scent. The time alone in the room will also give her a chance to acquire some of the normal household “scents” as well.
4. A note of caution: do not take the socks and rub down the cat who stayed home. This will not end nicely. You definitely don’t want to distribute the veterinary clinic smell to any other cats. Just take those socks and place them in your washing machine.
5. While the cats are separated, take the carrier and wash it out to remove the veterinary clinic smell.
6. When you feel that enough time has gone by and you want to reintroduce the cats, monitor their behavior until you’re sure everyone is back to normal. You can conduct an interactive play session, offer a meal or offer treats for distraction.  This might be the time to break out the super-special treats or the incredibly tasty food that you normally only offer on special occasions. If, however, the situation still seems tense, separate the cats again for a longer period.

Need More Information?

For more specific information on multicat household issues, refer to the book Cat vs. Cat.

Why Cats React to Catnip

There are several schools of thought as to why catnip creates a response in cats. It has been reported that the cat experiences a marijuana or LSD-type response. This response, luckily for the cat is without any of the risks and is simply getting high without any of the consequences associated with that action. Other theories include: the reaction being the same as the estrus behavior of female cats (rolling, rubbing); or that it simply triggers a pleasure response. Even though your cat may look like a love-sick feline, catnip is not an aphrodisiac. Cats who are neutered or spayed will have the same reaction as intact cats.

How Cats React to Catnip

The typical behavior of a cat reacting to catnip includes sniffing, licking, head shaking, eating the herb, body rolling and head and cheek rubbing. The effects usually last about 5-15 minutes. Even though the cat may display these behaviors, the response occurs through the olfactory system. Once the cat has had his fill, he will walk away from it. A cat will not respond again to catnip for at least a couple of hours.

Not all cats respond to catnip. The catnip response is hereditary. It is estimated that about 1/3 of the cats lack this gene. Additionally, kittens less than three months old don’t respond to catnip and often even show an aversion. With many kittens, the response doesn’t even occur until they’re almost six months old. Kittens don’t really need catnip exposure though anyway – they’re already motorized and ready to play at a moment’s notice.  Many elderly cats may not show much of a response as well.

The euphoric state produced by catnip is safe and you don’t have to worry about kitty getting hooked. There are a couple of precautions though to be aware of:

Cats Can Lose Their Ability to Respond to Catnip

First, if exposed to catnip too often, there is a risk of your cat losing his ability to respond to it. That would be a very sad consequence, so it’s recommended that you provide catnip no more than once a week. Don’t leave catnip toys hanging around the house all the time. Instead, keep them in tightly sealed containers when not in use.

Some Male Cats May React Too Enthusiastically

It has been my experience that there some male cats who, when exposed to catnip, get a little too rambunctious and can even border on being aggressive. In a multicat household, that can create a challenge if one cat who is on his catnip high, starts in with too much rough play. The first time you give catnip to a male cat in a multicat household, my recommendation is to do it in a separate room so you can see what kind of reaction he has.

It won’t take long before you can easily evaluate what kind of response each of your cats will have. Some will become extremely playful, some will drool, others get very vocal and some will just roll back and forth in a euphoric state. Either way, it’s as much fun for you to just watch your cat totally enjoying himself without a care in the world.

Quality of Catnip

When buying dried catnip, look at the packaging and try to find brands that state they use only leaves and blossoms. Companies that put use lots of stems aren’t as good.

To ensure you’re getting the best catnip possible, try growing and drying your own. Of course, it can be very difficult to grow fresh catnip without kitty getting into it before harvesting time.

Cats easily pick up on the catnip scent so don’t grow catnip outdoors unless you want every cat in the neighborhood to visit your backyard. Catnip will also easily take over your garden.

How to Use Catnip

Catnip comes in various forms – catnip spray, liquid, dried herb, fresh and catnip-filled toys. I think some of the lower priced catnip-filled toys aren’t really filled with catnip at all. My advice is to buy regular toys and “marinate” them in dried catnip or buy toys that have catnip pouches where you merely fill them with the dried herb. If you’ve bought some catnip toys and your cat doesn’t show a reaction, it might be a poor quality product. Before giving up and assuming that you have a cat who doesn’t have the catnip response gene, invest in some good quality catnip and see what happens.

I buy plain old fuzzy toy mice and keep them in a sealed container filled with top quality dried catnip. It’s cheaper than buying catnip-filled toys and they can be marinated over and over again. You can even fill the tip of a sock with catnip and put a knot on the end. Sprinkle a little on the floor and watch your cat roll around and redisover his “inner kitten.” There are so many ways to use catnip.

Hint: When using dried catnip, rub it between your hands before giving it to your cat to release the volatile oil.

Catnip as a Behavior Tool

Don’t just view catnip as an opportunity for your cat to swing from the chandelier and act goofy. It can be a powerful behavior modification tool to help with many feline behavior challenges you might be facing. If you have a timid or fearful cat, offer a little catnip so he has a chance to lose some of his inhibitions. If you’re in the process of introducing a new cat to a resident cat, a little catnip can be helpful. If kitty is scratching in all the wrong places, rub a little catnip on his scratching post.

If you haven’t done much playtime with your cat and are having trouble enticing him into a game, try jump-starting the session with a little catnip.

Whenever we’re having a party at our house and I place my cat in the bedroom for safety, I let her have a little catnip party in there so she can have some fun and then sleep it off.

Need More Information?

For more specifics on how to use catnip or how to incorporate it into a play session with your cat, refer to any of Pam’s books, including the recent release Think Like a Cat. If you’re experiencing a behavior problem with your cat and would like a consultation with cat behaviorist Pam Johnson-Bennett, CCBC, contact our office.

To make it easier on everybody (cat and human), don’t attempt to brush every tooth in your cat’s mouth the very first time. As with many things in kitty’s life, it’s much less stressful if this process is introduced gradually and under positive conditions. Coming at kitty with a toothpaste-covered toothbrush isn’t going to be well received.

Getting Started

The first thing you should do is get your cat used to the idea of having her mouth touched. When she’s in a receptive mood and enjoying some petting from you, gently stroke her around the head and then along the sides of the mouth. Offer a small reward for this. Work up to sliding your finger along her lips and then advance to gently rubbing her teeth. This may take several sessions to work up to this point so don’t be discouraged. Offer a reward during each step. If you’re clicker training, click and reward even the smallest positive steps.

Types of Brushes

There are multiple options when it comes time to actually start brushing your cat’s teeth. At your local pet product store you can find finger toothbrushes, pet toothbrushes, teeth-cleaning pads and oral hygiene sprays. Choose the type you think your cat will accept more readily. You may have to experiment with a couple of types. As for the oral spray, save that for if you truly decide you are unable to brush your cat’s teeth. If you have any questions about oral sprays, talk to your veterinarian.

If you don’t feel comfortable with any of the choices at the pet product store, you can try using a baby toothbrush. They’re small, gentle and easy to handle. You can even wrap a small piece of pantyhose or gauze around your finger. Just make sure that you don’t rub and irritate the cat’s gums.

Types of Toothpaste

Choose one that specifically made for pets. Don’t use toothpaste designed for human use because it can burn the cat’s tongue, throat and stomach. Pet toothpastes usually come in a variety of flavors to make them more appealing.

Keep it Quick and Fun

Ok, it may be a stretch to consider tooth brushing as a fun activity, but if you keep the process quick and casual, it will be over before kitty has a chance to complain. With my cat, I engage her in an interactive play session after tooth brushing as a reward for being patient.

Ideally, you should brush your cat’s teeth daily. I’m realistic enough to know that many people aren’t going to do that so at the very least, try to maintain a schedule of three times a week.

Oral Health is Serious Business

Routinely examine your cat’s mouth to check for signs of gingivitis. Look for red or inflamed gums, check for bad breath or other signs that might indicate a potential medical problem. If your cat has trouble eating, has stopped eating altogether, has bad breath, excessively drools or paws at her mouth frequently, there may be a dental problem going on that needs medical attention.

Need More Information?

For more specifics on your cat’s oral health, tooth brushing and how to help your cat become comfortable with the process, refer to Pam’s book, including the most recent release, Think Like a Cat.

Note:This article is not intended as a medical diagnosis.  If you have questions about your cat’s oral health, contact your veterinarian.

The following article is from the American Heartworm Society and is used here with permission.

Heartworm infection takes place when a mosquito carrying infective, microscopic-size heartworm larvae, bites into a cat for a blood meal. The larvae then actively migrate into the new host and develop further as they travel through the subcutaneous tissue in the cat’s body. At about 3-4 months, they usually settle into the arteries and blood vessels of the lungs, where they continue to develop to sexual mature male and female worms (Dirofilaria immitis). The average time from when the microscopic parasites enter the host until the females develop into mature worms and produce offspring is approximately eight months and is referred to as the prepatent period. This is about one month longer than in dogs.

As adults, the heartworms can mate and the females can release offspring called microfilariae (pronounced: micro-fil-ar-ee-a) into the blood stream. The cycle begins again when a mosquito takes a blood meal from the newly infected cat and draws the microfilariae into its system.

Cats are resistant hosts of heartworms, and microfilaremia, (the presence of heartworm offspring in the blood of the host animal), is uncommon (usually less than 20% of cases). When present, microfilaremia is inconsistent and short-lived. Some cats appear to be able to rid themselves of the infection spontaneously. It is assumed that such cats may have developed a strong immune response to the heartworms, which causes the death of the parasites. These heartworms may die as a result of an inability to thrive within a given cat’s body.

Cats typically have fewer and smaller worms than dogs and the life span of worms is shorter, approximately two to three years, compared to five to seven years in dogs. In experimental infections of heartworm larvae in cats, the percentage of worms developing into the adult stage is low (0% to 25%) compared to dogs (40% to 90%).

However, heartworms do not need to develop into adults to cause significant pulmonary damage in cats, and consequences can still be very serious when cats are infected by mosquitoes carrying heartworm larvae. Newly arriving worms and the subsequent death of most of these same worms can result in acute pulmonary inflammation response and lung injury. This initial phase is often misdiagnosed as asthma or allergic bronchitis but in actuality is part of a syndrome now known as Heartworm Associated Respiratory Disease (HARD).

Which Cats Are Susceptible?

Although outdoor cats are at greater risk of being infected, a relatively high percentage of cats considered by their owners to be totally indoor pets also become infected. Overall, the distribution of feline heartworm infection in the United States seems to parallel that of dogs but with lower total numbers. There is no predictable age in cats for becoming infected with heartworms. Cases have been reported in cats from nine months to 17 years of age, the average being four years at diagnosis or death.

Clinical Signs

The clinical signs of heartworm infection in cats can be very non-specific, and may mimic many other feline diseases. Diagnosis by clinical signs alone is nearly impossible, but a cat may exhibit generic signs of illness, such as vomiting intermittently (food or foam, usually unrelated to eating), lethargy, anorexia (lack of appetite), weight loss, coughing, asthma-like signs (intermittent difficulty in breathing, panting, open-mouthed breathing), gagging, difficulty breathing (dyspnea) or rapid breathing (tachypnea).

Signs associated the first stage of heartworm disease, when the heartworms enter a blood vessel and are carried to the pulmonary arteries, are often misdiagnosed as asthma or allergic bronchitis, when in fact they are actually due to a syndrome newly defined as Heartworm Associated Respiratory Disease (HARD).

Some cats exhibit acute clinical signs, with disease often related to the organs where the adult heartworms are thriving. Occasionally such infected cats die quickly without allowing sufficient time to make a diagnosis or offer appropriate treatment.

Clinical Signs Associated with Feline Heartworm Disease

Diagnosis

Heartworm infection in cats is harder to diagnose than it is in dogs and it is easy to overlook. Diagnostic tests have limitations, so negative test results do not necessarily rule out an infection.  Antigen tests, for example, only detect adult female or dying male worms. Immature or male-only worm infections are rarely detected.

The diagnostic plan for heartworm disease in cats can include, but is not limited to, a physical examination, radiography (X-ray), echocardiography (ultrasound readings of the heart), angiocardiography (X-ray of the heart with injected contrast fluid),  CBC (complete blood count), serologic testing (antigen and antibody study), microfilaria testing, and necropsy (after death).

Physical Examination

The results of a physical examination may appear to be perfectly normal in cats infected with heartworms. Harsh lung sounds are a frequent abnormal finding and may be present in cats without any respiratory signs. The presence of a heart murmur or abnormal rhythm is uncommon. Only rarely, have there been reports of ascites (fluid in the abdomen), exercise intolerance and signs of right-sided heart failure. In cats, the primary response to the presence of heartworms occurs in the lungs.

Imaging

X-rays

In X-rays of cats, enlargement of the main trunk of the pulmonary artery, blunting and tortuosity (twists) of pulmonary arteries are not as common as in dogs. Typically, the pulmonary arteries are enlarged with ill-defined margins, most prominent in the lower lobes of the lungs. X-ray imaging is generally considered the single most useful test for confirming a diagnosis and for developing a prognosis (outlook for recovery).

 Echocardiography

Ultrasonography or echocardiography (noninvasive sound readings for visualizing areas within the body) can be useful for identifying heartworms in the heart, main pulmonary artery and close portions of its right and left branches. However, it is virtually impossible to visualize the extremities of the pulmonary arteries where heartworms, particularly young worms, are frequently found in cats. Visualization of heartworms by ultrasonography gives a definitive diagnosis of infection.

Angiocardiography

A non-specific angiocardiogram (X-ray after a contrasting fluid is introduced) is a relatively simple method of confirming a tentative diagnosis of heartworms. However, this catheterization method is not widely used due to its invasive nature.

Blood counts

The complete blood count (CBC) from cats with heartworm infection may demonstrate anemia, nucleated erythrocytes (immature red blood cells), eosinoophila (increase number of eosinophils, a type of white blood cell) and basophilia (increase number of basophils, a type of white blood cell). The absence of eosinophils does not rule out a diagnosis of feline heartworm infection, because eosinophils are usually present in circulation inconsistently, occurring four to seven months after infection and intermittently thereafter. The presence of basophilia increases the suspicion of heartworm disease.

 Microfilaria testing

Routine tests for microfilariae are not generally useful for identifying heartworm infection in cats. Microfilaremia is temporary in the cat because none are present when heartworms are in the immature adult stages. Microfilaria are also not present in a single sex infections or in obscure cases where the microfilariea are removed from circulation by antibodies produced by the host. In those instances, a negative test result does not rule out feline heartworm infection. However, if circulating milcrofilariae are found, it becomes an absolute confirmation that heartworm disease is present. No other types of circulating  microfilariae, confusing the diagnosis, are found in cats in the United States.

 Serology

 Antigen Tests

Antigen tests detect specific antigens primarily found in adult female heartworms and are used routinely with much success to detect canine heartworm infection. Currently, tests are available in clinics, as well as at many veterinary reference laboratories. Several of these tests are approved for use in cats. Most commercial tests will accurately detect infections with one or more mature female heartworms that are at least seven or eight months old, but they generally do not detect infections of less than five months duration. Unfortunately, these highly specific tests lack the sensitivity to identify many infections in cats. They fail to detect infections of immature heartworms, infections with only male heartworms and some infections with only one or two adult female worms. However, when infection with adult female worms actually exists, antigen tests are more reliable than generally credited.

 Antibody Tests

Antibody detection tests detect the body’s immune response to heartworms, and are currently available for routine screening of feline heartworm infection, either as in-clinic tests or at many reference laboratories.  Antibody production occurs even if the heartworms do not complete their development. Antibody-positive cats are either currently infected or have been infected previously with Dirofilaria immitis. Such cats may or may not show clinical signs compatible with the disease, depending upon the age of the infection, the stage of the disease and whether or not the cat has spontaneously rid itself of the parasites. Therefore a positive antibody test may only indicate a previous infection with Dirofilaria immitis antigens , and not necessarily an existing heartworm infection. Antibody detection tests are only as specific as the antigen used to detect antibody. The use of a purified,  recombinant (genetically engineered) heartworm antigen leads to improved test results.

Since both L5 larvae and adult worms are capable of causing clinical disease in the cat, both antibody and antigen tests are useful tools and when used together increase the probability of making appropriate diagnostic decisions.

Comparison of Antigen and Antibody Tests for Cats

Treatments

Currently, there are no products in the United States approved for the treatment of feline heartworm infection. Most cats with heartworm infection that are not demonstrating clinical signs are allowed the time for a spontaneous cure to occur. If there is evidence of disease in the lungs and their blood vessels consistent with feline heartworm infection, such cases (possibly in the early stage) can be monitored with chest X-rays every six to twelve months as needed. Supportive therapy with small, gradually decreasing doses of prednisone (a cortisone-like drug) is recommended for cats with radiographic or clinical evidence of lung disease.

Cats with severe manifestations of feline heartworm disease may require additional supportive therapy, and may benefit from intravenous fluids, oxygen therapy, cage confinement, bronchodilators (which expand the air passages of the lungs), cardiovascular drugs, antibiotics and nursing care.

Heartworm extraction with various surgical devices has been performed in cats in which the worms can be visualized with ultrasound at the tricuspid valve or in the right atrium (of the heart), and especially in those rare instances of caval syndrome (obstruction of blood flow affecting the heart and the liver.

Preventives

It is generally recommended that all cats be tested for both antigens and antibodies (serology) prior to administration of a heartworm preventive. There are four heartworm disease preventive products approved by the FDA for use in cats, Heartgard^® for Cats (Ivermectin, orally) from Merial, Interceptor^® (Milbemycin oxime, orally) from Novartis, Revolution^® (Selemectin, topically) from Pfizer and Advantage Multi™ for Cats (Moxidectin / imidacloprid, topically) from Bayer. All of these products are considered effective in preventing the development of adult heartworms when administered properly on a monthly basis relative to the period of transmission.

Need More Information?

There is a wealth of information available at the website of the American Heartworm Society. If you have questions about heartworm preventive for your cat, consult your veterinarian.

Litter Box Overcrowding

The one aspect of living in a multicat home that isn’t as much fun is the fact that there’s more poop and pee in the litter box. And this can be where many cat parents tend to drop the ball – not because they’re neglecting to keep the box clean, but simply because there isn’t enough litter box space to go around.

How Many Litter Boxes Do You Need?

So, just how many litter boxes should you have? Ideally, there should be the same number of boxes as you have cats. Even if you try to keep the litter box sparkly clean, some cats don’t like sharing when it comes to their elimination location. And, of course, it is more difficult to keep one box clean enough for multiple cats. When you’re gone at work all day, you don’t want one of the cats to enter a litter box and not be able to find a clean enough spot in order to urinate. An overcrowded litter box can’t possibly be kept clean enough and the result may end up being that a cat feels he has no choice but to pee somewhere else. I promise you, the place he’ll end up choosing won’t be to your liking.

Shortcuts Don’t Work

You may think you can get around the cleaning issue by investing in a self-cleaning electronic litter box but that won’t address the fact that some cats aren’t comfortable sharing the box. Cats who get along in every other aspect of their lives together may feel anxiety when they have to use a litter box that another cat uses.

Location Matters

When you put additional boxes in the environment, location is key. Don’t just line several boxes up right next to each other because that essentially becomes just one giant box from a cat’s point of view. While that may be convenient for you, it can be stressful if location chosen is in an area where a particular cat doesn’t feel comfortable. In some multicat households there may be one or two cats who don’t want to cross through another cat’s area to get to the litter box.

Situate litter boxes in various parts of the house. If you know a particular cat tends to stay in a certain area, a litter box should go there. Try to create an environment where it’ll be convenient for all cats to gain access to the litter box without added anxiety.

Offer Choice

Although you can’t assign a cat to a specific litter box, the more choice you offer, the less stress there will be in the household. By placing boxes around the environment you’ll also be able to offer individual cats more litter choice as well. You may have one cat who doesn’t like the litter substrate that the other cats use so you can offer a type he prefers in the location nearest him. Problems often occur when a cat feels he has no choice and is backed in a corner. Look at your environment from the point of view of all your cats, create litter box convenience and choice. While it may be extra work to have to scoop and clean multiple litter boxes, the pay-off is huge in terms of the reduced chance of litter box aversion problems, reduced stress and an increase in feline happiness!

Need More Information?

You can find specific information and step-by-step instructions on dealing with multicat litter box issues in the book Cat vs. Cat. This first-of-its-kind book offers solutions to the many unique challenges that multicat households face. If you’re having cat behavior problems or cat training issues and would like a consultation with cat behaviorist Pam Johnson-Bennett, CCBC, contact our office for more information.

You are the key Ingredient

Interactive play involves YOU. The concept is simple. You use a fishing pole-type toy to create prey-like action. If you’re going to truly have a “think like a cat” mentality when it comes to cat behavior, you have to conduct a game that allows your cat to act like the athletic hunter she was born to be. With the interactive toy, you move it so the target at the end of the string can wiggle, slide, dart and creep around the room. When you move the toy like prey, it will stimulate the hunter in your cat.

While you may have lots of toys around the house for your cat, the problem is that they’re essentially “dead” prey. They don’t move. The only way to create action is if your cat bats at them. With the interactive toy, however, she doesn’t have to be both predator and prey – she can simply focus on being the hunter.

Match the Toy to Your Cat’s Personality

There are many interactive toys available at your local pet product store. Some are very basic – pole, string, toy dangling on the end. Some are more complex. When shopping, try to match the toy to your cat’s personality. If you have a somewhat timid cat, go for a toy that’s more basic and easy for her to conquer. If you have a very confident, athletic cat, you can still go for the basic toy or you can choose something more challenging. Just don’t get an interactive toy that has too big of a toy on the end because you don’t want to be become an opponent.

Scheduling Play

Maintain a regular schedule of interactive play with your cat. It won’t do any good to do a great playtime today and then not do another one for a week. Your cat needs the consistency. Schedule playtime once or twice a day for about 15 minutes each. You’d be surprised what a ½ hour a day of playtime and fun can do for a cat’s emotional and physical health.

All the Right Moves

How you move the interactive toy is important. Don’t wave it around frantically just to give your cat an aerobic workout. That’s not how cats naturally hunt. Stick to what’s natural for your cat. In the wild, a cat would stalk her prey while staying as quiet and invisible as possible. She would inch closer and closer and then, when she gets within striking distance, she would pounce. Cats don’t have the lung capacity to chase to exhaustion so don’t conduct marathons throughout the house. Move the toy like prey, alternating between fast and slow motions so it gives your cat time to plan her next move. Here’s a tip: movements that go away from or across your cat’s visual field will trigger her prey drive. Don’t dangle the toy in her face or move it toward her.

Hunting is just as much mental as it is physical. For interactive playtime to be beneficial for your cat in terms of confidence, trust-building or stress-relieving, she has to be able to plan her moves, have successful captures and not become frustrated. Keep that in mind as you move the toy around. Also, to build confidence, let her have plenty of captures throughout the game. If you were a cat, it would be pretty frustrating if you never got your paws on the toy. Remember to game needs to be fun for your cat.

Ending the Game

When it’s time to end the game don’t just suddenly stop and put the toy away. Your cat may still be very revved up. Instead, wind the action down, in the same way you would do a cool-down after an exercise. Let the prey slowly get tired or injured so the cat’s movements will naturally slow down as well. Then, leave your cat with one final grand capture.

Put Interactive Toys Away

In-between games, store all interactive toys out of your cat’s reach. The most important reason is that you don’t want her to chew on stringed parts. The second reason is that you want to keep the toys special.

Not a Replacement for Solo Toys

Interactive toys aren’t a replacement for the many solo toys that kitty has around the house. Make sure she has a good supply of the fun little fuzzy mice, puzzle feeders and other toys that are safe to leave around.

Want More Information?

Playtime is such a valuable tool in your behavior modification toolbox. You can use it to help with so many behavior problems. For step-by-step information on how to use interactive playtime to help with your cat’s behavior, refer to the book Think Like a Cat. If you’re experiencing a cat behavior problem or cat training issue and would like a consultation with a cat behaviorist, contact our office for more information.